alex the girl

This month has been all about opposites; there have been so many painful, frustrating moments amidst the most beautiful and happiest. There were days of feeling so vivacious whilst at the same time being violently ill. There was knowing absolutely what I am going to do, where I�m going to live and how I want to be but being absolutely unsure and fragile about those exact same things.

I think that�s life. It�s always full of confusion and clarity, ugliness and beauty, pain and joy. The trick to surviving, to having hope, I think, is knowing in which to believe.

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February 17, 2004

At 11am, we walked into the Four Seasons Henri V with our backpacks in tow and checked into a very large, cosy and terribly elegant suite. There were two things that surprised me with this room; the first was that within minutes of our arrival a maid in full uniform (including hat!) knocked on our door to ask if we needed help unpacking our clothes and laying them in the room (a separate closet). I had to keep from smiling as I said no, I think we could manage. The second surprise was when I walked deeper into our suite, I noticed a small table by the window in which there was a bottle of champagne chilling and two delicious looking pastry sweets, as well as very fine china and silverware.

If you're going to celebrate a 30th birthday, this is the way to go. The champagne was popped open and the desserts eaten and already I felt wonderful - and it wasn't even noon.

We decided to wander about Paris. As it was my birthday and I was still recovering from being quite ill the day before, all I wanted to do was hop from cafe to cafe, which we did. It was a rather lazy afternoon and around supper we strolled back to the hotel where I headed down to the guest-only spa. A rather stout madame massaged any and all cares away and afterwards I sat curled like a baby in the quiet room; a bed with private headphones, draped in a silk canopy and fluffy pillows and silk sheets. After that I sat at a table, sipped fine herbal tea and snuck chocolates into my pockets.

The time had flown by and when I lazily made my way to my room I discovered that in 30 minutes we were to be in Montmartre to meet up with Clotilde and her Maxence. A quick dash of lipgloss, a thrown on shawl and we were headed out the door for the metro, arriving only a few minutes late.

Clotilde greeted us at a tiny little candle lit restaurant whose menu was incredible. We ate and chatted for hours. I received my third surprise that night when Clotilde had secretly told the restaurant it was my birthday and they brought over 4 little desserts with candles. A quick song to celebrate, another quick blow of the candles and then the chopping of the desserts to share. I didn't want the night to end but because we were metro dependant, we would have to leave shortly.

We followed Clotilde and Maxence back to their flat where I sipped fabulous tea and chatted even more before like Cinderella on her fancy ass night out, I had to dash for the metro.

We arrived late at the hotel, tired, happy and terribly well fed and I thought to myself that this was the best birthday I had ever had. I hadn't received one present but I felt like I had everything and more. I decided to indulge on more time and in the best bathtub ever, had the best and longest bath ever.

I fell asleep somewhere around 3AM, content, happy and a little bit older.

I think everyone should live well daily but indulge in a bit of luxury and extravagance when the situation calls for it. Because it feels amazing to wake up the day after with a huge smile and wonderful memories.

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February 08, 2004

From the web site, I understood it was a first class hotel and would be something unusual but I wouldn't realise how truly amazing it was until this morning.

La Cour des Loges is situated in the old part of Lyon (2 hours SW by high speed train from Paris). We arrived in Lyon about 21:00 and thought finding the hotel should be easy enough, especially since maps are Chris' life and I always get feelings about direction. Yet, we wouldn't arrive at the hotel until 23:00, despite the hotel being only 1/2hr from the train depot/car rental.

Part of the problem is that the hotel is located in a walking-only district which isn't mentioned on their map or information. We circled the area below the hotel, looking for access to it. Finally I got out and decided to ask someone for help and saw a man who looked friendly enough.

"Pardon, monsieur, mais ou est La Cour des Loges?" I asked, pointing to my map. He told me he would take me there and asked me where I was from. I told him and he told me he was from Ireland, teaching in Lyon for the year.

"Teaching seems to be the way to get into France,"

"Yeah, and into their pubs," he said. Ah, a true Irishman.

An easy walk and we were at the hotel, checking in, handing the keys to the car to the bellman who would tuck it away somewhere in the village. We were shown to our room, built in the 14th century but updated with extreme luxury.

Entering I was instantly relaxed; heavy old beamed ceiling and floor, large windows covered by heavy fabrics, a large bathroom with tub and separate WC. Low lighting and an impressive fruit plate of figs, dates, apricots and other delectable were waiting to be eaten. They'd have to wait until morning because with a full day of travel, we were asleep within minutes.

This morning I met with the Director of the hotel who explained that the hotel was actually four old mansions dating from the 14th to 16th centuries. They were once private homes to some of Lyon's top families and then turned into shops and then in the 80's, into a hotel. The four homes were connected over a period of four years and were recently remodelled to bring back the beauty and relaxation of the renaissance. It was the most impressive hotel, comfortable, elegant and well located, but our favourite part of the hotel was Gerard.

He introduced himself to me quickly and did something very unFrench - he gave me his name and card right away. He was Head Concierge, at my service to help me enjoy Lyon.

At first we were all polite with one another, which is the French way of meeting but once some kind of relationship was established, we gossiped like old women. He told us secret places to go, always saying, "Don't print this!" and I would vow to never reveal his secrets. His ten minute meeting turned into a 40 minute conversation about Lyon, the French and the world (in that order).

Thanking him, we headed out on a beautiful sunny, warm day to explore Lyon a little before having to drive to Provence.

< January 2004 | Main | March 2004 >

February 07, 2004

I've flown a lot of airlines in my day but I only fly British Airways when going between Europe and Canada/America. Oh, there are often faster and cheaper ways of flying but I've remained loyal and this trip reminds me why.

Two years ago when I last flew, there was the standard one screen on the plane which always left me not being able to see the picture; often I didn't even want to see the picture. But now BA has introduced small video screens on the back of each seat where you control what you watch (17 programs in World Traveller, 47 programs in First Class). This allowed me to catch up on some movies (School of Rock, rocked!) and also allowed me some sleep (the individual sets don't interfere with your own lighting).

Also, the flights tend not to run full, ever, and so we had a row of 4 seats to ourselves which allowed me to lie down and sleep. I noticed on this trip, however, the tea was served in plastic tea cups and before they'd always been real. Ah well, plane tea is never fabulous in any event.

I'm currently waiting at Heathrow for a transfer to Paris; Heathrow is still a crap airport but at least there is now a Prêt a Manger (in terminal 4) which makes great, fresh, and fabulous sandwiches and drinks that are relatively inexpensive.

It's a long travel day; already 10 hours with another 6 to go. Thank goodness I'll be staying at a top hotel in Lyon tonight. I'll need it to steady the jet lag.

< January 2004 | Main | March 2004 >

February 04, 2004

Au Revoir until March, when I return a little more bulbous in the belly (from eating far too much), a little more relaxed, and a little bit older.

< January 2004 | Main | March 2004 >

February 03, 2004

I'd just like to say a huge CONGRATULATIONS to my very best, dear, and amazing friend, Emily and her wonderful husband, Graham, who had their first child, Simon, this morning.

< January 2004 | Main | March 2004 >

February 01, 2004

I was at a boutique today that had the loftiest ceilings, lots of walls and only one door in and out. Inside this boutique was a bird, flying madly around the high ceilings, looking for a way out, and never finding it despite getting so close so often. In his state of panic, he couldn't see that if he relaxed on the perch he kept flying to and looked just an inch below, he'd have the exit he needed.

This bird reminded me of people who often feel trapped and confused. They move around all the time, working themselves up, feeling more claustrophobic and chaotic as they search aimlessly for a way out, not really believing one exists.

But there is always a way out. There is always a door somewhere, no matter how hard it might be to find it. If one were to settle down, take a breath and look around before moving, perhaps one could find the exit they need. If they just relaxed, the worry of never finding it would lessen and perhaps, they�d even see beauty in where they were.